Dutch Marquise vs. Marquise Cut: Is There Any Difference?

A Dutch marquise has straight, angled sides and a geometric outline. A classic marquise has smooth, curved sides and a boat-like outline. Both cuts end in two sharp points, so they look alike at first glance.

The difference shows up in the outline, the facets, and the way each stone sits on the hand. This guide compares the Dutch marquise vs. marquise cut side by side, so you can pick the right center stone for your engagement ring.

It suits anyone shortlisting elongated stones, especially buyers drawn to vintage and art deco style.

Dutch Marquise vs. Marquise at a Glance

Here is the short version before the details.

Dutch Marquise Diamond Shape: Straight Sides and Pointed Tips

A Dutch marquise diamond has straight, angled sides that meet in a point at each end. Jewelers use the name for this outline, which reads as geometric and slightly vintage.

Some people describe the outline as an elongated hexagon. Still, it is a marquise-style stone with pointed ends.

“Dutch marquise” is a trade name, not an official gemological shape. A grading report may list it under a broader shape name. So check the shape description and the measurements, not only the name.

Faceting also varies from stone to stone. A brilliant-cut Dutch marquise throws lively flashes of light. A step-cut version uses long, parallel facets for a calmer, mirror-like look.

Marquise Diamond Shape: Curved Sides and a Boat-Like Outline

A marquise diamond is an elongated cut with two curved sides that meet at two sharp points. Jewelers also call it a navette, the French word for “little boat.”

Legend says King Louis XV ordered the shape to match the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. True or not, the name stuck.

Most marquise stones are brilliant cuts with 56 to 58 facets, the same facet family as a round brilliant. That gives the cut crisp, bright sparkle.

The marquise also has one of the largest face-up areas per carat of any shape. It looks big for its weight.

How a Dutch Marquise Differs From a Marquise Cut, Point by Point

The biggest difference is the sides: straight on a Dutch marquise, curved on a marquise. Proportions, faceting, bow-tie, and availability all follow from that outline.

Straight Edges or Curved Sides

A Dutch marquise has straight sides, while a marquise has curved ones. Look at the long edges first.

On a Dutch marquise, each long edge is made of two straight segments that meet at an angle. On a marquise, each edge bows outward in one smooth curve.

That one detail changes the whole silhouette. The Dutch marquise reads as a slim, angular stone. The marquise reads as a boat. If a stone sold as a Dutch marquise has smooth, curved sides, it is a marquise.

Length-to-Width Ratio

Both cuts are long and narrow, but they carry their length differently. Classic marquise stones often sit around a 1.85 to 2.00 length-to-width ratio, which gives the traditional slim look.

A Dutch marquise has no industry standard ratio, so it varies by cutter. Some jewelers cut it a little fuller than a classic marquise. Go too narrow, and it starts to look like a baguette or a regular marquise.

Ask for the exact length and width in millimeters. Then compare stones side by side.

Faceting and Light Return

A marquise is usually a brilliant cut, while a Dutch marquise can be brilliant, step, or hybrid. That choice drives how each stone handles light.

A brilliant marquise gives a crisp, fine sparkle. A brilliant Dutch marquise gives broader, bolder flashes. A step-cut Dutch marquise gives a hall-of-mirrors effect, with long, clean flashes instead of sparkle.

Two Dutch marquise stones can look very different. Watch a video of the actual stone in normal light before you decide.

Bow-Tie and Face-Up Look

Both cuts can show a bow-tie, which is a dark band across the center of the stone. It appears in elongated brilliant cuts when the facets do not return light evenly.

A faint bow-tie is normal and often looks natural. A dark, wide one is a cutting flaw and dulls the stone. Grading reports do not score the bow-tie, so judge it by eye on the actual stone.

Face-up, the marquise looks soft and flowing. The Dutch marquise looks bold and geometric.

Availability and Design Options

The marquise is easier to find, while the Dutch marquise is a specialty cut. Marquise stones come in nearly every setting style, from solitaires to clusters.

Avideri offers Dutch marquise rings in moissanite and marquise rings in moissanite, plus both cuts in lab grown diamond.

Ring Settings, Metal Choices, and Hand Appearance

Both cuts look best in settings that protect the points and keep the lines clean. The Dutch marquise leans vintage and geometric, while the marquise leans soft and classic.

A solitaire setting lets either cut stand alone. A hidden halo adds a glow under the stone and costs only slightly more than a solitaire.

A bezel setting wraps metal around the stone and shields the tips. Nature inspired designs with leaf and vine details suit the curves of a marquise.

Vintage and antique styles suit the angles of a Dutch marquise. Set east-west, with the points running across the finger, either cut looks modern.

Yellow gold warms both cuts and adds a vintage feel. Rose gold adds a soft, romantic tone. Platinum and sterling silver give a cool, bright finish. Our metals guide shows how each one wears.

Both cuts lengthen the finger. The marquise does it with a sweeping curve. The Dutch marquise does it with a sharper, more graphic line. Because both spread weight across a long face, each looks larger than a round stone of the same carat weight.

Which One Suits You?

Choose the Dutch marquise for a bold, vintage, geometric look. Choose the marquise for a soft, classic, finger-lengthening look.

Choose a Dutch Marquise If…

Pick a Dutch marquise if you want a distinctive stone that few people wear.

Dutch Marquise Diamond Ring In Hidden Halo Style

Dutch Marquise Diamond Nature Inspired Engagement Ring

Dutch Marquise Halo Diamond Engagement Ring

• You love geometric lines and art deco style.
• You want a bolder, fuller look than a classic marquise.
• You like the calm, mirror-like flash of a step cut.
• You want a ring that stands out without a loud design.

Choose a Marquise Cut If…

Pick a marquise if you want the classic outline with the most sparkle.

Marquise Cut Diamond Ring with Round Diamond Twisted Pave Style Band

Marquise Diamond Ring in Three Stone Style

Marquise Cut Diamond Ring with Marquise and Round Side Stone

• You prefer soft, flowing curves.
• You want the strongest finger-lengthening effect.
• You want the widest choice of settings.
• You love crisp, fine brilliance.

Buying a Dutch Marquise or Marquise

What to Check First

Check five things first: the bow-tie, the tips, the proportions, the shape description, and the stone type.

1. Bow-tie. View a video of the actual stone. A faint shadow is fine, but a dark band is not.
2. Tips. Choose V-prongs or a bezel. Diamond is the hardest gem and moissanite is close behind, yet a sharp knock can still chip a point.
3. Proportions. Ask for the length and width, then compare stones side by side.
4. Shape description. Read the report and watch the video, not the label alone.
5. Stone type. Lab grown diamond and moissanite both suit these cuts. Lab grown gives whiter sparkle, while moissanite throws more rainbow flashes and costs less.